Drying the Dog
By Charles Hopkins
Published 11/28/2007 | Pets and Animals
There are various pieces of drying equipment available for the
professional to use. The most common being the free standing hot air
Method of drying medium to long coated breeds
Having towel dried or used a blaster (if the dog will allow), place
the dog on a non-slip surface, preferably attached via a lead to a hook
in the wall or a frame over the table, so that the dog feels secure
when the dryer is directed at him.
If the dog is used to being dried, you may start on the head so
that the dog warms up quickly, however if the dog is a little timid or
fidgety it is best to start from the back and work towards the front
allowing him to become accustomed to it.
Pick up the hair onto a slicker brush and direct the hot air onto
this (not onto the dog's body as it could be too hot), the slicker
entangles and twists the hair, thus allowing the roots to dry as well
as the hair on the brush. This process continues until all the hair is
dry, however the key is to be systematic- only move on when the section
you are working on is totally dry.
Many dryers today have two settings - many dogs need the weaker
(therefore quieter) of the settings directed at them when working on
Fluff Drying Poodles, Bichon Frises and Bedlington Terriers
Having mastered the basic techniques of drying you can move on to
fluff drying the curly coats. Unlike the other breeds, you do not
attempt to dry as much as you can before starting to fluff dry. The
secret is to towel dry one side more than the other so that the coat
does not begin to dry naturally, therefore curly when working on the
It is important to dry the head first on these breeds so that no
hint of a curl is seen- therefore perfectly dried ready for shaping.
The pom on the poodles should then be dried followed by the legs and
The slicker brush should be in constant motion throughout, flicking
the hair in all four directions- the quicker the flick the better the
result! Remember that you are not brushing to remove knots- as these
should have been removed before bathing, therefore pressure is not
necessary, it's the correct technique that is vital.
Do not move on until the section you are working on is thoroughly
dry, for a damp curly coat will result in kinks and waves- a coat on
which it is impossible to achieve a desirable finish when scissoring.
Remember when using the slicker to take care around the facial
area- for the pins can quite easily scratch the eye lenses, also take
care around the hocks and belly, which are sensitive and can be
scratched equally easily.